For you out there who’s wondering what I have been doing with my life.. well.. I have been doing an Endless Summer, Endless Surf lifestyle. For you see, the Philippines has been blessed with good surf weather for the past 2 months which means waves are glassy, shoulder to head high and sometimes perfect for beginners (like me!) or for pro surfers (like a couple of my friends!) So, for the past 2 months I’ve been going to Baler, Pundaquit (I finally got to surf Magic Left which made me very happy because I’m a goofy rider–which means my right foot is in front of my left foot–, wherein I ended up getting cuts under my foot because I stepped on a dead coral!) Bacnotan, La Union and of course, my home away from home, San Juan, La Union.
Through my surf trips, I was able to meet new people who share a common love for the beach,surf, board shorts and bikinis (and Beer!) It has been an awesome experience because as I have said, I have been a lost soul for the past year and being at the beach somehow cured the loneliness that I felt. It calmed me down and managed to control the dramanila that consumed me. I felt like I was back to being my old self who just loved life and was optimistic about things regardless of the situation.
In my trips, I was able to see and experience things that I haven’t tried before: Climbing the 500 year old Balete tree, enjoying walking barefoot on the hot sand, running under the rain in a bikini, listening to the sound of the pounding waves, listening to the reggae beats of Indio-i, sleeping in a hammock at The Circle Hostel (both in La Union and Zambales), inhaling the smell of a newly waxed board, squeezing in a jeepney full of surfboards, going to the local market to buy a 6 kilo Dorado, chatting with the locals over (a few?) bottles of beer, gazing at the awesome sunset (over a couple of beers!) and getting stuck in the sand in Liw-liwa and managed to get the car out of the quick sand.
The people were more wonderful than the adventures. The locals are down-to-earth, funny, simple, humble, would teach you what to do and what not to do. They are relaxed and calm. From them, I learned to leave dramanila where it belongs (in Manila!) and to not get affected with the crap other people have (because of this, a friend of mine told me I was more chill and relaxed.) I learned that it’s okay to follow your bliss but to not hurt anyone in the process. From them, I learned that life is simple, it’s only others who make it complicated.
People may not agree of the lifestyle and the choices I make which means experiencing an endless summer for the past two months. But for me, it’s not about getting the golden tan that every one wants to achieve. It’s all about regaining the focus I once lost and throwing everything in the ocean. The smell and the sound of the ocean calms me down and it reminds me to keep my feet on the ground. It reminds me that I have to conquer this world on my own and the ocean is a good place to start.
While I’m writing this entry, my mind is fluttering to the place I started calling home. I am taking note of the wave forecast while I silently nurse my health back to normal. I cannot go back to my “home” till next week since I am on self imposed hibernation but my feet is itching to go back in the water.
Wherever you are, or whoever is reading this entry.. I wish you can also experience my Endless Summer. The calming feeling that overtakes you when you hear the pounding waves and when the cool water touches you hot skin. I wish you can see what my eyes can see. But right now, the only way I can share to you what I learn, see and experience is through this blog.
So till the next adventure. Drive through the unknown and discover the feeling of the simple life. Live. Love. Surf. HAPPY NEW YEAR! MORE SURF FOR 2013!!!